Sunday, September 9, 2012

Coming Home, Cape Coast, and Transportation Triumphs


I think that it says a great deal about the degree to which I have settled in here that, when off traveling on the weekends, I have begun referring to our little spot here in Dodowa as “home”.  “When we get home, remind me to…”  I don’t have any here with me, but I do have some at home…”  It’s not just the actual structure of the guest house that I think of when saying this, but the people in the community and the general feeling I get around here.  Stepping off the tro-tro after our weekend excursion to Cape Coast, such a warm feeling of being back where I belonged came over me, much like the feeling I get when returning to my actual house in Pittsburgh after a long time away.  It’s more than just the relief that a six hour journey in cramped buses is over, it’s coming back to this little town that has been a huge reason I am so happy here.  But enough of this love letter to Dodowa…on to the main event of the weekend, our trip to Cape Coast! 

            Besides all of the fascinating activities done this weekend, our most impressive accomplishment, in my opinion, was the successful arrangement of our transportation to and from Cape Coast.  Most of you know that I usually like to have a plan, especially when doing something new.  I like to know in my head exactly what will happen, when it will happen, what it will look like when it is happening, etc.  You get the idea.  So, being here in Ghana has surely been an exercise in my ability to do things without much of a plan.  For example, starting our journey on Friday, we basically knew three things, courtesy of Oti:  we had to get the tro-tro from here to Medina, from there we had to find one going to Circle but get off at New Plan, and that there then should be a place to get on a bus to Cape Coast.  Despite being laden with a significant amount of luggage (a note has been made to pack lighter for future trips), the first part of that plan went off without a hitch.  The second part started well.  We found the right tro-tro, and told the mate where we wanted to get off, to which he assured me “yes yes we’ll take you there, just sit down”.  They dropped us off in a place that we assumed was correct.  Actually, strike that.  They dropped Erin and I off.  Somehow, even though the three of us stick out every where as clearly together in one group, the driver didn’t quite get the memo that Hannah was getting off where we were, and started to drive on while she was still on board.  Slight moment of panic, but luckily he had barely turned the corner before Hannah had him stop again and let her off.  Crisis averted.  Anyway, it quickly became clear we were not exactly in the right place.  Sidenote: being in Ghana has also made me get over my aversion to asking random people for directions, since usually I hate to be that annoying person and many people at home aren’t nice when asked.  However, here, I have stopped hesitating to do so, since 1) we often have no idea where we are and where we are supposed to go, and 2) people here are actually really nice and helpful when you ask.  So, after questioning about a half dozen various bystanders, we came to the conclusion that we had slightly incorrect advice from Oti and actually should get the bus to Cape Coast from Keneshi.  Enter the third tro-tro of the day, for a thankfully quick ride.  Once in Keneshi (which is absolutely PACKED with vendors selling everything you can imagine-one lady had a very elaborate tower of toothpaste and toothbrushes balance atop her head), we managed to find the correct bus without too much trouble, and passed the time waiting for it to fill by trying out some of the many snacks being sold by the vendors circling the bus and trying to make a sale at all of the windows.  We were also treated to the passionate sales pitch of a man selling…mouthwash.  I thought that maybe he just really felt strongly about clean teeth, but then he moved on to another product with just as much zeal: body wash.  Go big or go home, right?  He certainly knew how to talk up the most mundane products that I would buy at Target without needing nearly that much convincing.  Anyway, our bus finally pulled away and immediately hit traffic.  Which would have been a major bummer if not for the top-notch ninja movie marathon that was playing.  It had everything: cheesy dialogue, the dumb blonde sidekick to the villain that turns good in the end, the heroic father-son pair fighting for the family they had lost to ninja attacks, Chinese throwing stars striking people in the face, and some high-quality (sarcasm) special effects.  We also came to realize the enigma that is Ghana’s highways.  They have speed bumps, like literally ten in a row.  You’d think that this would help keep the speeds of the vehicles low to encourage safety.  You’d be wrong.  They might as well be the arbitrary bumps that pop up on dirt roads, since the drivers fly over them regardless.  So the speed bumps, by definition, aren’t exactly doing their job, and as passengers, we were treated to a nice jostle every five minutes from the boom-boom-boom-boom of a quadruple speed bump.  Finally, six hours after we left Dodowa, we arrived safely in Cape Coast, quickly found (correction: were found by) a taxi driver who gave us a fair price to our hotel, and rolled into Baobab House, much to the relief of the owners who had called us twice on the bus asking if we were still coming.  It turns out that Baobab is in an awesome location in Cape Coast, and is always filled, according to our taxi driver.  Venturing briefly back out to find fried rice and popcorn for dinner, we quickly settled in to the five room house that is run by an NGO that supports the education of children at the Baobab school and eventually gives them the opportunity to work at the house and learn the hospitality business.  It is also right next to Cape Coast castle, half a block from the beach, and near the main bustling streets of the town.  Saturday came around bright and early for all three of us, for we were woken up by what sounded like a marching band parading through the streets at 6 AM.  When they made a second round at 7, we glimpsed their banner-it was a fitness group encouraging everyone to get up and get moving.  Appropriate, since we had quite the active day on Saturday.  We went by tro-tro to Kakum National Park, about 45 minutes away, to do a canopy walk through the rainforest.  It’s basically a series of bridges connecting various platforms in trees about 120 feet off the ground.  And when I say bridge, I don’t mean a nice wide planked bridge on which two people could easily pass each other.  I mean a single board of wood laid lengthwise over metal bars, with netting on each side to hold on to.  The experience of literally looking down at the tops of huge trees in the forest was AWESOME.  To someone afraid of heights, not so much.  I’ll do my best to post photos as soon as I have fast enough internet, but I think that even those won’t fully do the experience justice.  Following the canopy walk, we headed to a monkey sanctuary, with a cab driver that we successfully convinced to take us to the sanctuary and back to Cape Coast for quite a good price.  I know it might seem weird how often I comment on getting good cab prices, but you have to understand that as soon as a taxi driver sees an “obruni” (white person), he knows how high up he can jack the price without you realizing you’re getting ripped off.  And since cabs are paid for entirely based on the price you barter for, it’s difficult at first to know if you are getting a good price, or to be able to get them to bring down a high price.  In fact, when trying to get out to Kakum, before we found a tro-tro to take us, we were with another driver who told us he would take us for 30 cedis (15$), to which a random man at the gas station immediately interjected and yelled at the driver for trying to charge too high a price.  So at least other people here look at for each other and will tell us when we are being cheated.  That collective spirit is another of the many things I love about Ghana.  Back to the monkey sanctuary: it was, to put it mildly, a very interesting experience.  The European woman who showed us all of the animals there (no pictures allowed, sadly) bore a few nasty looking animal bites, and her invitation to stay for food or drink at the end of our visit was answered with a resounding NO once we saw the half dozen or so cats as well as a few monkeys living in her kitchen.  In all seriousness, though, it was a beautiful piece of land with some pretty cool animals (the names of which are escaping me right now), and the few people running the place could not have been more welcoming.  The owner talked about the animals like they were her own children, and clearly loved doing exactly what she was doing.  The view from the top of the path up the hill was spectacular as well, the second occurrence of the weekend for which the pictures will not do justice.  The afternoon took us back to Cape Coast for some lunch, then through the streets to the various fabric stands.  I got more fabric for another dress, and bought some other things, the identities of which I will not disclose since the recipients (Jimbo and Mammy) are reading this blog. J  Then, we went to the beach and climbed the rocks outside of Cape Coast Castle for one of the best views of a sunset I have ever seen.  We were planning to visit the castle in the morning, so seeing the outside of it was intriguing and made me eager to see more.  Something else completely mesmerizing?  The huge waves crashing over the rocks on the beach.  Bringing the count of “picture wouldn’t do it justice” to three, the waves were absolutely monstrous.  Sunday dawned sunny and warm, and after a quick (by Ghanaian standards) breakfast of omelets at Castle Restaurant overlooking the beach, we made our way into Cape Coast Castle.  The term “castle” is more than a bit misleading, since this is much more of a fort, which exchanged hands between many European colonizers through the years and is most famous for its role in the slave trade.  About two million slaves passed through Cape Coast Castle and the Door of No Return on their way to the Americas.  We saw the male and female slave dungeons, where 200 people would be packed in a room the size of a two-car garage, with two small windows 12 feet above providing the only ventilation and light.  I don’t have any pictures of the inside of Cape Coast Castle-originally none of us wanted to pay the extra charge required to take pictures, but in hind sight I would not really have felt comfortable taking pictures of the things seen inside.  Sure, the view from the castle out to sea was spectacular, but I had no real desire to document the harsh realities that were laid apparent in the dark, dank chambers in which so many suffered and died.  In stark contrast to those places was the governor’s quarters, located at the highest point in the castle, where light streamed through numerous large windows and high ceilings and marble floors made the sights seen below that much more unnerving.  Most ironically, the chapel in the castle was built right over the male slave dungeons, and a hired servant would sit outside the chapel during services and listen through a hole down into the dungeons to see if the slaves were plotting to escape or rebel.  The complex and dark history to the quiet castle was fascinating to hear, and it is surely worth a visit (or at least a quick Google search for everyone at home!).  This brought an end to our Cape Coast weekend, and despite the insistence of our taxi driver to the bus station that “hardly any buses run on Sundays and it could take all day for that whole bus to fill up with people and leave so you should pay me 120 cedis to take you back to Accra instead”, I asked people myself what the situation was like and once assured that it wouldn’t take long and would only cost 4 cedis and 50 peswas, we assertively sent our driver on his way and boarded the bus, which left a half hour later.  Not bad for three obrunis!  Again, these travel accomplishments excite me so much because there is nowhere to look up things like bus schedules or tro-tro stops, so you are pretty much always figuring things out as you go, and the uncertainty can make it difficult to travel efficiently and cheaply, since “just taking a cab” could often be a much easier but much more expensive solution.  So, I’m very proud that we got home today (a five hour journey) for about 6 cedis ($3) each.  Our plans to come home and make spaghetti were foiled by our still not-working stove and oven, and a brief power outage had us all reaching for headlamps and lanterns, but the electricity is back on now, my stomach is full of apples, Nutella, and plantain chips, and our running water is on.  Life is good.            

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